Getting Started IC Trainers

What Aircraft ?
		Trainer or High Wing (wings on top!) models are substantially more stable and 'forgiving' when learning to fly and offer a quicker way to become a solo flier (see The First Flight) although, it is not unknown for someone to learn with a more aerobatic model. Apart from buying a used model (check out the For Sale on this site), the most common aircraft available is an Almost Ready To Fly (ARTF) which can be purchased from most good Model Shops. These generally will be packaged with all the necessary hardware to complete the aircraft (not necessarily with the engine), already covered to a high standard and will take a few hours to complete. Alternatively you can purchase a 'kit build aircraft' which has all the parts to build yourself. Covering material and some other items will need be purchased to complete the airframe.
A 'Kit' aircraft can be far more rewarding when first seen flying and you will learn a lot more with regard to covering the model, dynamics, set up and repairing the airframe, after the inevitable hard landing or crash. If speed is of the essence, or you are more interested in flying rather than building ARTF is the way to go.
There are numerous Model Shops around that offer 'Deal' prices for complete kits - Plane, engine, radio gear and accessories. Most can be found on the internet and offer delivery. Whatever you buy be patient, READ the instructions thoroughly (at least three times) and follow them !!! Easy........ Some model types are shown below. Click the picture for a larger image. Tips: Buy a larger model (easier to see in the sky) 60" Wing Span or more 4 Channel are better i.e. Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle controls Check the box to see what's included and what's needed to complete Whatever the aircraft following the instructions carefully will ensure the Aircraft flies well Go for an aircraft that requires a .40 - .60 2 ST engine (6.5cc-10cc) Talk to someone who flies model aircraft !!!

FLAIR Cub. 4 channel trainer Scale type kit build aircraft.	IRVINE Tutor 40. ARTF Trainer	RIPMAX Trainer .40 ARTF Trainer	SEAGULL Boomerang Trainer 40/46. ARTF Trainer	Arising Star .40 ARTF Trainer

What Engine ?
		There are many types of engines available on the market today and choice is made according to cost, packaging and sometimes 'word of mouth'. I personally have not heard of a bad engine only bad set up but, a good engine which costs a little more can last a long time if treated with respect and set up properly. Again, I would suggest that if an aircraft requires a .40 .60 2-stroke engine (check the box) I would go for a .45-.50 size engine. The biggest (.60) is not always the best. Once you have learnt to fly competently (even before then) you will want an intermediate or even a fully aerobatic aircraft. There are multitudes of aerobatic aircraft to choose from and most are suitable to a .45-.50 2 ST engine !!!
Tips: Don't compromise, a good engine will start easy and give reliable performance Use the manufactures recommendation for fuel type and propeller type and size READ the instructions Get assistance when first starting the engine (use manufacturers settings) Talk to someone who flies model aircraft !!!

Radio Gear
		A multitude of choice exists from standard four channel to multi-channel computer sets. The transmitter is probably the most personal thing of all and is often purchased for it's looks and number of switches and knobs. All the 'switches and knobs' in the world WILL NOT teach you to fly. As with most things the more you are prepared to spend the more functions a radio will offer. In general radio gear has improved tremendously over the years so choosing a make and model is difficult as they all tend to be very reliable. My suggestion is to go to your local flying field and talk to several competent fliers who will give you sound advice, this will save you money and dis-appointment in the end. Feel and Functions is the key here, if a transmitter feels comfortable to hold and has the functions (see tips) to do what's required it's suitable. The more expensive models will have Aero, Heli and Glider functions and have between 4 and 20 model memories as well as various mixer settings which can be extremely useful on the more aerobatic models.

A transmitter will last for many years so any extra money spent here will pay dividends. Included in the kit will be a receiver, 4 servos, switch harness, fixing accessories, battery packs (Ni-cad) and charger and of course the instructions. READ THEM !!!
Tips: Minimum 6 channels required (35mhz) Aircraft only Ni-Cad re-chargeable batteries are a must Get the same mode that others fly at you local field (mode 1 or most commonly mode 2) Rate switches are essential when learning to fly A 'Buddy Box' function is desirable but not essential Check out the different specs at you model shop or internet sites See what make and models are being flown down your flying field Talk to someone who flies model aircraft !!!

Accessories
With ARTF Kits most of the necessary parts (apart from maybe adhesives) to complete the airframe are included. Check the box for a list of 'parts needed to complete'. For 'Kit build' aircraft there is usually instructions for any extra parts that are needed to complete contained in the box.

Other
Once the aircraft is completed with the radio gear installed you're ready to go down the field. If you have not already done so, Join a Club. The minimum you will need is fuel, means of transfer to the fuel tank and starting equipment. Most importantly you will need a competent pilot to check over the model and test fly it. Whatever the temptation DON'T fly it yourself, it is highly dangerous and will most certainly end in disaster !
Fuel - Get the type / mix (or equivalent) recommended by the engine manufacturer or seek advice from Club Members.
Starting Equipment: Fuel Pumps are available as hand or electric. I personally prefer the hand pump as I have used many electric pumps (sometimes combined with a Power Panel) over the years which always seem to leak after a while and you don't need an electrical source to work it. Glow plug starters can be driven through a Power Panel powered by a 12 volt lead acid battery with a glow plug lead stepped down to 1.5v. As an alternative you can use a glow start. Both require a suitable charger. To start the engine you can 'flick' it over or use an electric starter. Again I prefer the 'flick' methods as you get a feel for the engine. With electric starters be careful as you can damage the engine, particularly when new, in the event of a fuel / hydraulic lock. You will need some other tools / equipment for use at the field such as :- Plug / prop nut spanner, small & medium size crosshead and flat screwdrivers, fuel tubing, a clothes peg (yep!) with your name and frequency number on it (explained later), and don't forget the flask of tea or coffee ! If you don't have this equipment most club members will assist (apart from the flask) but as time goes on you will acquire more tools etc so it may be prudent to either make or buy a flight box to carry it in. B & Q have a number of tool boxes that can be adapted and have the advantage of being fuel/ waterproof. A peg board is required with all the frequency numbers on for our club but you can make one of these easily.
				Hand Pump

				Power panels

				Glow Start

				Electric Starter

				Flight Box

The First Flight
	After obtaining frequency clearance ALWAYS get a qualified pilot to check the aircraft, radio installation and engine mounting. If you have checked and double checked through the building process it should take but a few minutes for a 'flight clearance' and be ready to start your engine.
Model Restrained
	A good pilot will 'walk you through' what he is doing and why and explain the controls. Did you read the instructions and 'run in' the engine ? With the aircraft restrained and engine started and 'tuned' the Pilot will carry out a number of safety and range checks before flying can commence. This procedure will virtually ensure a successful flight so carry out the necessary checks EVERY time !!!
Tuning the Engine
	These checks are well documented in your BMFA Handbook. All competent fliers will go through a checklist before flying to eliminate possible problems during the flight. Who wants to go home with a 'Bag of Bits' ? This is a 'fun' and rewarding sport but MUST be carried out SAFELY.
Final checks done ready for Take-Off !
	Once the model is on the flight line the 'Test Pilot' will check all the controls again under full power (model restrained) and subject to it being safe to do so will take off !
	Most ARTF models fly great 'straight from the box' but the pilot will assess the aircraft over the duration of the flight, make necessary trim changes and may suggest certain modifications / adjustments to improve the flying characteristics. They will probably suggest that you have a 'twiddle of the sticks' to get a feel of the aircraft. After landing , post flight checks and making those changes as advised you are ready to learn to fly.
Further Flights	There are two methods of learning to fly. The first is where the Tutor will take off get the aircraft to a suitable height and hand the transmitter to the trainee to practice flying. In the event of loss of control, dis-orientation or engine failure the transmitter is handed back to the Tutor to recover/land. A major dis-advantage to this is that valuable time is lost passing the transmitter and regaining control and at low level this can result in a unplanned landing.
	Buddy Box is the other, which I prefer because it offers certain advantages. Two transmitters are connected together (Tutors and Trainees if compatible) by means of a lead and a switch or button gives control to one or other of the transmitters. Firstly, as control is quickly regained by the Tutor via the switch a trainee can be given more time to recover from mistakes before intervention by the Tutor. Secondly, the control movements can be set exactly as required for both pilots and thirdly, buddy box comes into it's own when learning the take off and landing procedures. In my experience buddy box has saved more models from crashing or hard landings where passing the transmitter wouldn't have.
Finally....	I have taught many people to fly (and enjoyed it) over the years and my objectives have always been the same.......... ALWAYS FLY SAFELY - Get the model up AND down safely and teach the trainee the same! Never take chances with any model - Always check before every flight Get the trainee to practice the 'A' certificate maneouvers whilst learning to fly I strongly recommend that you read the BMFA and LMFC Handbooks and at the very least be conversant with the Safety Codes.
	The BMFA as the governing body of our sport have stated that the 'A' Certificate may be equated to a "safe solo" standard of flying and I would encourage anyone learning to fly to aspire towards this qualification as a benchmark of flying ability. This will stand you in good stead for the 'B' Certificate, and more recently introduced the 'C' Certificate.